November 12, 1861, The New York Herald

The James River and the Kanawha Canal

Between this hill and the ricketty suburb known as Rocketts there is a large encampment, and I believe there are also batteries here, for the defence of the river. I know that there certainly are batteries on the bluffs, above and beyond Rocketts. Near here the few steamers and sailing craft that used to trade to Richmond had their mooring places, and here also the James River and Kanawha Canal has its southern outlet into the river. This is a great work of internal improvement, so far as the design is concerned; but, unfortunately for Virginia, her execution does not keep pace with her plans, and the canal, though open for many years, does not come within a long distance of the Kanawha river, which it was intended to tap. If it ever will do so, it must be after secession is crashed and the Union restored.

Intrenchments and Camps of Instruction

But Richmond is not, as seems erroneously to be considered, garrisoned by a large army. So far as I could see there are only camps of instruction maintained here. The recruits are sent for drill and equipment, and when they are considered tolerable in those respects they are forwarded to Manassas or other points, and their place supplied by newcomers. One camp of instruction is a level tract of ground between the penitentiary and the new cemetery, which used to be occupied as a fair ground. Another, and more extensive one, is on the north side of the city, about a mile and a half out on the line of the Fredericksburg Railroad, where there is an enclosure of about a mile square, sometimes used as a race course. I believe it is called the New Fair Ground. Near it is the Baptist College, an institution for the whole South. The only extensive intrenchments in the neighborhood of the city are also in this vicinity. They extend northward for half a mile, commanding the railroad, but even they are not mounted with guns, so confident are the military authorities of the strength of the rebel army concentrated around Manassas, and which must be defeated before an army can penetrate from the northward to the environs of the Confederate capital.

It would be vain to attempt particularizing the localities of the encampments. Richmond, like ancient Rome, is seated on her seven hills or more and wherever there is space and eligible ground for camps, they are covered with tents. The soldiers are not allowed quarters in the city, but are kept strictly to their camp life; but the officers—scions of all the first families—are treated with more consideration, and are allowed to consult their comfort so far as to occupy town quarters. The hotels are consequently crammed with them from garret to basement. There may be from eight to ten thousand soldiers around Richmond, but these are not regarded, as I said, in the light of a garrison, but only as apprentices acquiring their initiatory lessons in military life. They are, therefore, kept constantly on the move; those who have had the advantage of a five or six weeks training giving place to new hands.

They have commenced to erect wooden barracks and huts for the soldiers at the various encampments, the most numerous and extensive being on the fair grounds to the north of the city. These erections are becoming so extensive as to lead to the idea that a large part of the rebel army in Virginia are to Winter in Richmond.

Governor Letcher and President Davis

I do not believe that very friendly or confidential relations exist between John Letcher, as head of the State government, and Jefferson Davis, as head of the rebel confederacy. The former can by no proof of his subserviency to the rebel confidence in him. Besides, he is altogether too plebeian in origin and appearance, and too democratic in his tastes, to suit the delicate fastidiousnes and the exacting requirements of pure blood, on which the chivalry pride themselves. I will not say that any decidedly hostile feeling is manifested in the relations of the State and Confederate executives, but I am inclined to believe, from all I can gather, that those relations are the reverse of friendly. The citizens and the soldiers treat Letcher with the utmost contempt, while Davis has from them demonstrations of respect and confidence that might flatter the vanity of a European despot. When Davis came first to Richmond, he put up at the Spottswood Hotel, but this residence was too public and too vulgar to suit either his taste or necessities. The citizens, therefore, procured for him and fitted up in the most expensive manner, a very large and beautiful residence on Marshall street. I believe it is built of white marble. It occupies a large plot of ground, the garden sweeping down, terrace like, in the direction of that deep gully which separates this part of the city from Church Hill. Here he holds his court, and is all the time surrounded by military officers and civil dignitaries. He has but recently recovered from a severe attack of intermittent fever, the same from which he was reported to have died.

Arsenal, Iron Works, Water Works, Etc.

In the western section of the city, on the bank of the James river, is the State Arsenal, a large, substantial building, where arms are being manufactured. Quite close to it are the Tredegar iron works, and extensive concern, which has done nothing since April last except cast cannon and balls for the use of there rebels. The same day that the news of the fall of Fort Sumter reached Richmond the rebel flag was hoisted from the grounds of the Tredegar—not, however, by the proprietors, but by a party composed of several rebel members of the State Convention then in session, one of the editors of the Enquirer, and Colonel Moore, of the First Virginia Militia. This latter gentleman is an Irishman by birth, long resident in Richmond, where he keeps a large headware establishment on Main street, and is a genial, high-minded and high-toned man. He was wounded at the battle of Bull run. On the bluff rising above the Tredegar works stands the penitentiary, surrounded by a high wall, and some distance back of it is the new cemetery. The level space between is used as a camp of instruction. A little higher up the river, just where the grounds of the Cemetery come down, are the waterworks. The conception of them is very simple, the water from the James river being made by a dam to flow into a basin, from which it is pumped to a reservoir in an elevated part of the city.

Business and Currency

So much for the topographical and other prominent features of the city. I wish I could present them more clearly, but I still hope that they are sufficiently intelligible. As to business, it is generally represented as completely ruined, except those branches of trade that are connected with the equipment and supplies of the army. These are flourishing, but the only currency to be had is paper money; and when the war ends those who have appeared to drive the most thriving business will probably find themselves rich only in worthless shinplasters. Nevertheless the people do not seem inclined to look far into the future, and as bank notes, issued in unlimited supply, and without any regard to a corresponding capital, will pass current in trade, there do not appear to be very hard times. Those branches of trade that are connected with articles of luxury; or articles not of the first necessity, are entirely ruined, and many are the empty stores that can be seen in Main street, silent witnesses against the madness of the hour. Still the sidewalks are crowded with pedestrians, and on the whole Richmond may be said to be a gay city.